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Dim Sum is truly one of the greatest things of all time. Originating in Guangzhou, China – according to some article I found on JSTOR – Dim Sum isn’t a dish so much as it is the process of eating a bunch of small dishes together with other people. Various other Chinese regions had and have their own takes and versions of this practice as well. The kind that most people in the United States can get is largely Cantonese inspired, though local restaurants all have their own takes, inspired by various things.
The idea of eating small plates is not local to China of course. The Spanish have tapas, Koreans have banchan (yes, I know that’s not EXACTLY the same, but it’s close), and Americans have ordering a bunch of stuff off the dollar menu. Nevertheless, Dim Sum is the best of them.
Chicago, as many large American cities do, has a Chinatown. Ours is in between Comiskey and the “South Loop.” It has a very cool public library branch. Like very cool. Astonishing really. Ping Tom Park is also there, which is a standout place to play some softball. Chicago’s Chinatown is one of the city’s great neighborhoods. Unfortunately, the reason why so many American cities have a Chinatown, including Chicago, is pure and simple racism. Chinese immigrants often could find nowhere else to live, except for these designated areas, most of which did not have the same access to city services that the rest of the metropolitan area did. The neighborhoods, especially in the 19th century, and into the 20th, were often overcrowded, unsanitary, and ignored whenever possible by white residents. They were also places where people raised families, told stories, developed new cultural identities, and practiced old ones. Just like any other ethnically segregated area of any major American city.
In addition to the library and Ping Tom Park, if you want some Dim Sum in Chicago, it’s where you go. There are some places further North, around the Argyle Red Line, where you can get Dim Sum, but Chinatown really is the place. Everyone has their faves, but personally I’m a Three Happiness guy. It’s the first place in Chinatown I got Dim Sum, and it’s been my favorite ever since. They’re open twenty-fours hours, so go whenever you want.
There are a couple things I like about Dim Sum. The food of course, is a big reason. I’ll talk about that. It’s more than just the food though. I like that you need a big group, I like the small plates, and most importantly I like the experimentation.
The food is the main draw of Dim Sum. From the steamed pork buns, to the sesame encrusted rice balls, to the chicken feet, to whatever else, I’ve yet to be disappointed by Dim Sum. The fact that you can get so many different flavors in one meal really seals the deal. No having to pick between five things that sound great, you can just get them all. Each dim sum dish is usually pretty cheap, $3-5 depending on where you are dining. So, you can get a lot of different stuff and pay what you would for one thing at a non-dim sum restaurant. Now, this low price is in part due to racism over what white Americans think Chinese food is worth. Go to a tapas restaurant and you’ll see prices two to four times as expensive as that per dish. The same thing is true about tacos. It’s one of the things Anthony Bourdain was so pissed about. So, if you do go get dim sum make sure you tip well, very well.
Another reason why it’s so cheap though is that it’s meant for a lot of people. Like the minimum you should have at your table is six people. The small dishes are meant to be shared, or ordered twice. And when you’re splitting a three-dollar dish six ways well, you better get a few more. Most Dim Sum places are set up to accommodate groups that large as well. Lots of big circular tables. I also find that conversation works better when everyone isn’t focused on one big plate in front of them, but instead thinking about passing things, or looking across the table for their next morsel. Unless you only hang out with the worst people in the world who want to keep track of precisely how many shrimp egg rolls people ate, splitting the bill in equal parts makes sense as well. Pretty great all around.
Some dim sum places take the food around on steamer carts. A waiter will take a cart by your table, you’ll pick what you want off the cart, and then pass it around the table. Sometime later a different cart will come with different food and you’ll pick what you want from there. That’s a beautiful thing. While you might not always get exactly what you want, you’ll always get something that’s good as hell. And if it’s some sort of bao? It’s going to be good. Not every place does this. Some give a menu with a bunch of pictures and then you check off what and how many you want of each. This is also great, and probably better for the overheads of the restaurants, but if you can find a steamer cart place, go there. Especially if it’s your first time.
Experimentation is a great thing as well. Dim Sum practically forces you to try some new stuff. It's also not a set menu from restaurant. While there will certainly be similarities from menu to menu, there is so much room for local taste and preference that it’ll be a new experience each time you go. There is a lot of variety out there and you get to try it all if you want. I think that’s awesome.
Dim Sum is also great because it’s truly one of those things that would be gigantic pain in the ass to make at home. It really is a restaurant only experience. Unless you have like a bunch of bun steaming baskets and an unlimited time and budget. Which I certainly don’t. So go get some dang dim sum.
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Three Happiness is very good, I also liked Triple Crown which is around the corner on Wentworth. Good piece!
Another great piece, Dylan, bringing in history, culture, food, and social awareness. Thanks!